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Hue
Located 660km from Ha Noi (1 hour by plane or 12 hours by train), 1,100km from HCMC (1½ hours by plane or 20 hours by train), 105km north of Da Nang (3 hours by car).
Hue served as Vietnam's capital under the Emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945, and is arguably the most beautiful city in Vietnam. The city’s regal past can still be seen today inside the walls of the Citadel and the war-ravaged Imperial City.
At the meeting of the 17th session of the World Heritage Committee (WHC) in Columbia, from the 6th to the 11th of December 1993, UNESCO has come to the decision of recognising the architectural ensemble of Hue as a world cultural heritage. On 2 August 1994, the delivery of the recognising text has been organised at the Imperial Palace of Hue. This was a noteworthy event in the cultural history. For the reason that Hue is the first site in Vietnam ever listed in the World Heritage list
The WHC has briefly assessed the value of Hue as follows:
The architecture of Hue, which has been the Capital of a unified Vietnam, built at about the beginning of the 19th century, combines the oriental philosophy with the traditions of Vietnam. Intimately mingled with the natural environment, the beauty and special richness of the architecture and decorative art of the building are an original image of the Vietnamese monarchy at its most prosperous period
The fact that the imperial city of Hue is now listed as a World Heritage Site may represent a new chance for Thua Thien Hue Province and for the whole country in general. When you are in Hue for sightseeing, do try some Hue cuisine, widely known to be some of the best in Vietnam.
Attractions in Hue:
1. Hue citadel
2. Kinh Thanh Hue (Hue capital citadel)
3. Hoang Thanh (Royal citadel or Imperial city)
4. Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden citadel)
5. The nine dynastic urns
6. Perfume river and Ngu Binh mount
7. The Imperial tombs
8. Tomb of Tu Duc
9. Tomb of Minh Mang
10. Tomb of Khai Dinh
11. Hue garden houses
12. Dong Ba market
13. The war zone (DMZ)
14. Bach Ma national park
15. Lang Co beach
16. The Hai Van pass
17. My An hot-springs
18. Thuan An beach
19. Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda
1. Hue Citadel
Location: Hue Citadel is situated on the Northern bank of the Perfume River
Characteristic: With an area of 500ha and a system of three circles of ramparts, namely from outside to inside: Kinh Thanh Hue (Hue Capital Citadel), Hoang Thanh (Royal Citadel) and Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Citadel).
Hue has chosen to be the capital city of the Southern Kingdom by all Lords Nguyen and officially became the capital under Tay Son Dynasty. For approximately 400 years, Hue has become a great landscape and architectural site. Hue royal complex has been officially recognized by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site
Ngu Binh Mountain in the south is used as a front screening elevation. Two sand dunes of The Con Hen and Con Da Vien on the Perfume River are chosen as geomancy condition "dragon on the left, tiger on the right" to protect the capital city
2. Kinh Thanh Hue (Hue Capital Citadel)
This construction stared in 1805 under the reign of Emperor Gia Long and completed in 1832 under the reign of Emperor Ming Mang. Under Nguyen Dynasty, the Kings had ordered to build ramparts, palaces and constructional works for royal. Over 200 years to now, it is still original with nearly 140 small and large constructions
Unfortunately, Vietnam’s history of war has boded ill for the citadel, and much of the interior, particularly the Forbidden Purple City, has been destroyed. It was during the conflict with the Americans that some terribly bloody and vicious fighting took place, which flattened a lot of the inner city. However, some parts do still remain and will give you an idea of what a magnificent imperial capital Hue must have been.
The Citadel, square in shape, is almost 10km in circumference, 6m high, 21m thick and 10 entrances. On the top of the walls that surround it, 24 bastions are established for defensive purposes. Besides, the Citadel has an ancillary gate connecting the Tran Binh Bastion called the Thai Binh Mon (Peace Gate)
3. Hoang Thanh (Royal Citadel or Imperial City)
The Imperial City was constructed in 1804 and is square in shape, with a perimeter of nearly 2.5 km. It has four entrances: the Noon Gate that is opposite the flag tower, the Gate of Humanity on the left side, the Gate of Virtue on the right hand side, and the Gate of Peace at the rear. The city is surrounded by the Golden Waters pond that flows into the lakes at the northern corner of the city. Each gate has a bridge spanning the Golden Waters, whilst the Noon Gate has three bridges. In imperial times, the centre bridge was for the use of the Emperor alone, whilst the other two bridges were for the use of his entourage.
Once you enter via the Noon Gate, separating you from the Great Rites Court is the Thai Dich Lakes (Great Liquid Lakes). These were dug in 1883 and are spanned by a central bridge, the Trung Dao (Central path) Bridge. The bridge has two ornately designed gateway, carved with dragons slithering up and down them.
The Great Rites Court (also known as the Esplanade of Great Salutation) consists of two paved terraces. The upper was reserved for high ranking civil and military mandarins, whilst the lower was for village officials and elders. The steles on each side of the court indicate where each official’s designated place was. At the two corners of the court stand two bronze Kylins, which are believed to bring peace.
Beyond the Great Rites Court there is the Throne Palace. This was used on meetings. During these meetings, the Emperor would sit on his throne whilst only four top ranking officials were allowed in the palace. The remainder of officials had to stand outside according to rank. The palace was seriously damaged during the Tet Offensive.
Behind the Throne palace is where the Great Golden Gate once stood, marking the entrance to the Forbidden Purple City.
The imperial City was not destroyed to the extent of the Forbidden Purple City and there are number of temples still standing, although some are locked up due to their instability. These include Trieu Temple, Thai Temple (a reconstruction), the Residence of Everlasting Longevity, Phung Tien Temple, Mieu Temple, and the Hung Temple
4. Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Citadel)
Located inside the Imperial City, behind the Throne Palace, the Forbidden Purple Citadel is reserved for Emperor and his family. Constructed early under reign of Emperor Gia Long in 1804 with brick walls of 3.72m high, 0.72m thick, about 1,230m in circumference. Its front and back sides are 324m each while either left and right side is more than 290m including 50 architectural constructions of different sizes and 7 gates for facilities of entrance and exit. Dai Cung Mon (the Great Palace Gate) is in the front side for the Kings. Can Chanh Palace (the place for daily working of Emperors). Can Thanh (Emperor's Private Palace), Khon Thai Residence (Queen's Private Apartment) reserved for the Queen. Duyet Thi Duong house (Royal Theatre), Thuong Thien (the kitchen for the Kings' food), Thai Binh Lau (King's reading room)
In addition, there are also famous royal tombs and temples of Kings Nguyen outside Hue Citadel. Seven tombs with different aspect are not only a wonderful arch but also combining beautiful, imposing nature and poetic of Hue. Ancient Hue including Perfume River and Ngu Mountain, palaces and citadels, tombs and temples with hundred of historic years are being embellished and recovered by material contribution of Vietnamese and International community in order to keep Hue City as World cultural heritage
5. The Nine Dynastic Urns
Location: Nine Dynastic Urns are located in the shade of the Hien Lam Pavilion, in front of the The Mieu Temple.
Characteristics: The nine Dynastic Urns are the greatest bronze ones in Vietnam They were cast by Emperor Minh Mang in 1836 to symbolize the sovereignty of the dynasty
Each of them is named after the posthumous title of the emperors worshipped in the The Mieu Temple. For example, Cao Urn is named after Emperor The To Cao (Gia Long), Nhan Urn after Emperor Thanh To Nhan (Minh Mang), Chuong, Anh, Nghi, Tuyen and Thuan Urns after Emperors Thieu Tri, Tu Duc, Kien Phuoc, Dong Khanh and Khai Dinh respectively. (Until 1958 only seven altars were established in The Mieu Temple corresponding to seven urns. Du and Huyen Urns did not exist yet)
After their casting, the Nine Dynastic Urns were placed in accordance with the disposition of the altars in the Temple. Cao Urn stands in the center, alone in the first row. The others line behind and are placed symmetrically on both sides. On each urn are 17 traditional Vietnamese patterns like stars, rivers, mountains, seas and oceans, vehicles, valuable forestry and sea products, etc. The 153 patterns on the 9 urns constitute a real encyclopedia on the country. This precious cultural heritage is incredibly well-preserved in spite of the harsh weather and the numerous wars.
At first sight, the nine urns are almost alike, but in fact, they all differ in weight and size.
6. Perfume River and Ngu Binh Mount
Location: Deriving from Truong Son Mountain, the two springs Ta Trach (Left Tributary) and Huu Trach (Right Tributary) meet at the junction of Bang Lang fork and create the Perfume River.
Characteristics: Looking like “a silver sword upright to the sky”, Perfume River is really an invaluable godsend to Hue City
From Bang Lang to Thuan An estuary, the Perfume River is 30km long (The river level is not much above that of the sea) so that the river runs very slowly. The colour of the Perfume River is darker when it runs along the foot of Ngoc Tran Mount - the Jade Cup Temple (Dien Hon Chen) - where there is a very deep abyss
The Perfume River is beautiful sight from its source, and runs among mountains, forest trees, plants, etc, bringing with it fragrances of tropical flora. The river runs slowly through the verdant and shady villages of Kim Long, Nguyet Bieu, Vy Da, Dong Ba, Gia Hoi, Dinh market, Nam Pho, Bao Vinh, mingling with the odors of flowers of Hue... The river with the shimmer blue limpid colour is like a pearl in the sun. Boats are rowed up and down with remote, meditative and deep folk melodies at deep night. It is an eternal pleasure for many generations of tourists who go boating to behold the poetic landscape, to listen to the folk melodies of Hue in tranquil nights
The views on both sides of the river with the citadel, town, gardens, pagodas, towers and temples, etc. and their reflections in the waters make the already loveable river even more poetic and musical. Many people think that Hue City has peaceful, gentle and tranquil landscapes mostly thanks to the Perfume River. This river brings to the city a meditative poetic characteristics and the harmonious limpidity exhaling from a land of age-old culture
Together with the Perfume River, 105m Ngu Binh Mount is the second invaluable gift endowed by Nature to Hue. These two mingle with each other creating the Romantic Mountain and river beauty of Hue. For a long time, this beautiful mount and the blue limpid Perfume River have become the symbol of Hue City. Therefore, people often call Hue "The land of the Perfume River (Huong River) and Ngu Binh Mount" or Huong-Ngu Land".
7. The Imperial Tombs
Hue was the imperial centre of the Nguyen Dynasty which was founded in 1802 by Emperor Gia Long, and lasted until 1945. The banks of the Perfume River around the Imperial City became the royal graveyard for the thirteen rulers of this area. The majority of Vietnamese practice ancestor worship, regarding death as a passage into another existence. They believe the layout of a tomb affects the soul’s journey to the spirit world, and the fortunes of the living relatives are determined through formal ceremonies to the dead and protection of the tomb. Desecration of a tomb would have detrimental affects upon both the living ancestors and the souls chance of reaching the ultimate resting place in the spirit world. The tombs of the Emperors were even more important as their position would determine the future of the Dynasty. The Emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty there fore established their own Valley of the Dead, which is believed to be protected in both the physical and spiritual worlds.
8. Tomb of Tu Duc
Tu Duc was the Emperor of Vietnam from 1848 to 1883. He is regarded as one of the more decadent cruel Vietnamese Emperors. Although he was a dedicated Confucian, his lifestyle was unusual in all areas. At each mail he would have a choice of fifty dishes that were delivered by fifty servants and prepared by fifty chefs! He had over one hundred wives and quite a few girlfriends on the side, although he never had children. When Tu Duc drank tea, the water was collected as dew from lotus leaves. He also had one of his brothers put to death after his involvement in a revolt against him. His tomb was constructed between 1864 and 1867 and is own of the more grandiose tombs in Hue City’s surrounds. In an attempt to foil grave robbers, his body was not even buried in the tomb, and all those who were involved in the burial were beheaded. His body and treasures are at a destination that remains unknown.
The centrepiece of the tomb is a huge stone tablet that is estimated to weigh over twenty tonnes upon which are inscribed various clarifications of his rule. There are also a number of temples and other buildings within the tomb grounds, along with a nice lake with an island in the centre. Towards the end of his rule, Tu Duc spent a lot of time on this island and generally within his tomb, accompanied by his entourage. The tomb of Tu Duc is about 7 km out of the centre of Hue city.
9. Tomb of Minh Mang
Minh Mang Emperor ruled from 1820 to 1840 and was responsible for some of the major construction upon the Imperial City. It was also the actions of Minh Mang towards the Catholic missionaries which first brought French military power to bear on Vietnam. The ground of his tomb are large and peaceful, and his actual bomb oversees the Lake of Tranquillity. The first entrance is guarded by a life size stone entourage of soldiers, horses and elephants, and opens to a courtyard containing three temples. Past the temples, you will cross Trung Minh Ho (The Lake of Impeccable Clarity) which is bridged in three places. The central bridge was for the sole use of the Emperor whilst the other two were for his entourage. Beyond the pond there is Sung An Temple that Minh Mang dedicated to his Empress. Following this temple you need to cross another bridge before reaching his tomb that is a huge walled-in dirt mound, which you cannot enter. To give Minh Mang peace of mind whilst ruling, all his servants were eunuchs.
10. Tomb of Khai Dinh
Khai Dinh Emperor ruled from 1916 to 1925, and his tomb majestically appears from the side of a mountain covered by forest. Unfortunately, the tomb lacks the harmonious blending with nature that many of the other tombs and Vietnamese architecture tries to achieve. This is due to the fact that the tomb was built earlier this century during the French colonial occupation and under their influence. The weather-stained and blackened concrete walls make the tomb seem older than it actually is, but the different style of Khai Dinh’s tomb makes it worth a visit.
The tomb is layered, and each stage is divided by stairs. The entrance to the tomb begins with a long climb up from the street level staircase that is bound by dragon banisters. This opens up onto a courtyard, but it is the second level that has a stone statued entourage made up of life size mandarins, horses and elephants. You must contend with more stairs to get to the main part of the tomb and to where Emperor Khai Dinh is buried. The Khai Dinh temple is 10 km south of Hue City, and a sealed road passes straight past its entrance. The view from the top is quite beautiful, looking at the plains and surrounding mountains. The large white statue farther south standing on a hillside is of Quan Am, the Goddess of Mercy.
11. Hue garden houses
Cultural characteristics of Hue such as its cuisine, royal court music and royal architecture are being exploited effectively. Besides, the garden house is a typical and unique characteristic, contributing to the greater beauty of Hue.
Yet, Hue garden houses seem to have been forgotten. Many garden houses have disappeared and researchers are warning that if there are no suitable solutions, Hue garden houses won’t exist in the future. Garden houses began two hundred years ago, during the Nguyen dynasty in the former capital city, Hue. While the royal family lived in the palace, many other royal relatives lived in private residences or smaller palaces in villages such as Nguyet Kieu, Vy Da and Kim Long. They were aristocracy, enjoying gifts of land and gardens across the city.
Owners of the garden houses used strict rules of geomancy to build houses. All rations of the house, from the front gate to the back door were calculated carefully. The direction of the house was chosen carefully so that it can welcome winds and avoid ghosts and the harsh weather of the central region. Behind the front gate is a wind- screen that was made of bricks, usually bearing legends or being planted with jasmine to prevent both wind and the curious eyes from outsiders. It also creates openness for the garden and reduces the separation between the house and its surroundings. Behind the wind-screen are rockworks or small ponds with lotus flowers. There are two rows of hibiscus, roses, and laurel along the path leading to the main house.
The houses are solemn and bear an old atmosphere removed from modern life. The houses have elegance and soul, and love for art of the owner. Houses turn their backs on the road for two reasons, firstly good direction choice, suitable to the owner’s age and an escape from the noise and effervescent atmosphere of urban life. The houses are divided into three spaces: the left for men and the right for women, and in the middle an altar to pray Buddha or ancestors.
From thousands of houses in 1995 to 115 houses in 2001 and there are now only 50 houses. Several houses were rebuilt with cement. Most garden houses disappeared under the weight of progress. Owner’s houses sold parts of their houses to build more modern dwellings. Several were rebuilt as restaurants or Karaoke bars. Therefore, the number of garden houses is getting smaller and researchers are warning that if there are no suitable solutions, garden houses will soon disappear.
In Hoi An, a world cultural heritage, not far from Hue, people have well maintained their old houses. As owners of such old houses as Diep Dong Nguyen and Tan Ky could regularly receive financial and technical support to preserve the traditional architecture. They have attracted a great number of tourists and eared a good living by collecting fees and selling souvenirs.
The tourism industry can learn from these experiences to preserve Hue garden houses. Tourism agencies should co-ordinate with owners of garden houses to open more tours, besides traditional tours to castles, and palaces, to attract tourists’ attention. This can help the owners of these houses earn money to protect their houses. This is just a suggestion as it needs coordination among many related agencies, but a suitable solution is needed to protect Hue garden houses.
12. Dong Ba Market
Located next to Trang Tien bridge, Dong Ba market has been one of the most famous commercial centers in Vietnam for more than 100 years. The old local market was built in 1899 and then destroyed in 1968, in 1986 the market was rebuilt on an bigger area of 5 ha. Up to now, all the typical features of a traditional Vietnamese market are still there such as the sampan landing, the bus station and the bazaars. Dong Ba market is a paradise forsnapshots of daily activities as well as for shopping with everything from souvenir items to bronze goods, Hue sesame sweetmeat, conical poem hats, etc
13. The War Zone (DMZ)
This area saw most of the major confrontations during the American War. North of Hue is the Demilitarised Zone, or DMZ, and Quang Tri Province where much of the fighting occurred. The border between the communist North and the US-supported South was the Ben Hai River, not the ‘17th Parallel’ as is popularly believed. The area still bears the scars of the massive bombardments that took place.
The few remains of the many camps and combat bases, the barren ground pockmarked with craters, and the tens of thousands of graves in the National Cemetery, a fraction of the million North Vietnamese soldiers who died in the conflict, are solemn reminders of war. Nearby is the Vinh Moc tunnel complex, less extensive, but more authentic, than the more famous Cu Chi tunnels near Ho Chi Minh City.
14. Bach Ma National Park
Forty kilometres south of Hue is Bach Ma National Park, one of Vietnam’s best-managed nature reserves. The park encompasses a mountain area that was once a colonial hill-station. As well as good nature trails, waterfalls, lush vegetation and opportunities for trekking, Bach Ma has spectacular views over the coast.
15. Lang Co Beach
Twenty-five kilometres further south, Lang Co Beach is a long stretch of white sand with a pretty village and an attractive lagoon at the southern end. Halfway along is recently built resort hotel on the beach, a short distance from Highway 1. Its proximity to Hue makes it an alternative to accommodation in the city itself.
16. The Hai Van Pass
The mountains straddled by the Hai Van Pass are generally regarded as an unofficial demarcation line between the north and the south of Vietnam. It has spectacular views from its highest point, a good reason for avoiding the new tunnel cut through the granite peaks.
17. My An Hot Springs
The My An mineral spa is surrounded by attractive cultivated gardens extending over 18ha. It offers therapeutic mineral water treatments, and accommodation in large traditional houses. The complex is owned and run by the Hue-based Huong Giang Hotel Company with Japanese investment.
A pleasant 7km drive from Hue alongside the river takes you past several interesting pagodas and commune houses. The spa complex is set back from the road. The main pool, therapy area and accommodation are complete. A second phase including a reception area and a large restaurant is under construction for completion in 2005. As the area being developed is completely separate from the completed elements, a visit or stay is perfectly feasible.
The Spring
The mineral water artesian spring rises from a depth of 150m at a surface temperature of 52˚C. As you approach the spring, you become aware of the characteristic ‘bad eggs’ smell of hydrogen sulphide. The water, cooled to 42˚C, feeds a large attractive swimming pool. Adjacent is a smaller pool surrounded by fresh water shower cubicles.
The Water
The air around the pool is apparently charged with negatively charged particles (ions). Breathing it is believed to give relief to sufferers from certain allergies, such as allergic sinusitis and asthma. Bathing or swimming in the water is reputed to be beneficial for skin ailments, healing wounds, slowing the effects of aging, reducing the risk of strokes, helping breathing and relieving indigestion.
The Spa produces a gargle and mouthwash based on the spring water.
Our intrepid inspection team acted as guinea pigs to see if the Spa’s assertion that the water is drinkable was true. The answer is ‘Yes – just about’, but it’s better if you hold your nose. Drinking the water is said to be good for indigestion, constipation and flatulence. As none of us admitted to such afflictions, we can’t confirm its effectiveness or otherwise.
18. Thuan An Beach
Thuan An village, about 13km from Hue, lies beside Hue’s only beach of note. It’s within easy reach – if you feel energetic, it’s a pleasant cycle ride. The road runs alongside the river past several interesting pagodas and commune houses, and a local market at No village. From there, you cross a bridge to the long sand spit and lagoon where the Perfume River finally enters the sea.
The signs will direct you to the busy part of the beach. Unless you want to eat in one of the many dozens of seafood restaurants, this area is best avoided. It’s very popular with Vietnamese people – on public holidays, in particular, a sizeable part of Hue’s population heads for Thuan An. The beach disappears under the seething mass of people, and the sea boils with flotillas of ‘swimmers’ buoyed up by inflated vehicle inner tubes. The sand is dirty, and there’s no shade apart from that offered by the restaurants.
A new road and bridge link to is under construction, and is bound to increase the number of visitors to Thuan An.
If you’re in Hue, and fancy a dip in the sea, the best idea is to turn off the left before the road that leads to the main beach. Until quite recently, this led to what was then the main beach. In 1999, a violent storm drove the sea inland, overwhelming the beach. On the left are the remains of a small hotel reduced to a ruin by the waves. As a result, the local people decided the beach was unlucky and, together with the seafood restaurateurs, decamped to another beach site a couple of kilometres to the south.
Today, most Vietnamese visitors avoid the original beach. Apart from a couple of hardy restaurateurs willing to risk another invasion by the sea, it’s virtually empty. A band of feathery pine trees along the top of the beach provides some shade, but if you want to laze on the sand, buy a cheap sunshade in Hue in advance.
An alternative would be to head for the main beach, and then trudge southwards until you find a quieter part of the beach.
19. Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda
According to legend, the people around this area used to see a vision of an old lady appearing on the hill where the pagoda now sits. Upon seeing people, she always said that someday a great leader would build a pagoda at this site to bring peace to the country. One day, when Lord Nguyen Hoang passed by this area, upon hearing the story, he ordered the construction of the pagoda in 1601. He named it Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda.
Overlooking the southwest bank of the Perfume river, the Pagoda has two sections. The front of the Pagoda can be accessed from the Perfume river and has the Phuoc Duyen tower which can be seen from many points in Hue. This area also houses the great bell which was cast in 1710. It also has the turtoise bearing a great stele carved in 1715.
The rear of the pagoda is the main hall where Buddha is enshrined. It is also an area where the monks of the temple live and practice Buddhism. The Pagoda was the center of Buddhism in central Vietnam. In 1963, in a defying act against the Diem regime, Thich Quang Duc burned himself in downtown Saigon. Today, the car that took him to Saigon is stored in the rear of Thien Mu Pagoda.
Hue served as Vietnam's capital under the Emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945, and is arguably the most beautiful city in Vietnam. The city’s regal past can still be seen today inside the walls of the Citadel and the war-ravaged Imperial City.
At the meeting of the 17th session of the World Heritage Committee (WHC) in Columbia, from the 6th to the 11th of December 1993, UNESCO has come to the decision of recognising the architectural ensemble of Hue as a world cultural heritage. On 2 August 1994, the delivery of the recognising text has been organised at the Imperial Palace of Hue. This was a noteworthy event in the cultural history. For the reason that Hue is the first site in Vietnam ever listed in the World Heritage list
The WHC has briefly assessed the value of Hue as follows:
The architecture of Hue, which has been the Capital of a unified Vietnam, built at about the beginning of the 19th century, combines the oriental philosophy with the traditions of Vietnam. Intimately mingled with the natural environment, the beauty and special richness of the architecture and decorative art of the building are an original image of the Vietnamese monarchy at its most prosperous period
The fact that the imperial city of Hue is now listed as a World Heritage Site may represent a new chance for Thua Thien Hue Province and for the whole country in general. When you are in Hue for sightseeing, do try some Hue cuisine, widely known to be some of the best in Vietnam.
Attractions in Hue:
1. Hue citadel
2. Kinh Thanh Hue (Hue capital citadel)
3. Hoang Thanh (Royal citadel or Imperial city)
4. Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden citadel)
5. The nine dynastic urns
6. Perfume river and Ngu Binh mount
7. The Imperial tombs
8. Tomb of Tu Duc
9. Tomb of Minh Mang
10. Tomb of Khai Dinh
11. Hue garden houses
12. Dong Ba market
13. The war zone (DMZ)
14. Bach Ma national park
15. Lang Co beach
16. The Hai Van pass
17. My An hot-springs
18. Thuan An beach
19. Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda
1. Hue Citadel
Location: Hue Citadel is situated on the Northern bank of the Perfume River
Characteristic: With an area of 500ha and a system of three circles of ramparts, namely from outside to inside: Kinh Thanh Hue (Hue Capital Citadel), Hoang Thanh (Royal Citadel) and Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Citadel).
Hue has chosen to be the capital city of the Southern Kingdom by all Lords Nguyen and officially became the capital under Tay Son Dynasty. For approximately 400 years, Hue has become a great landscape and architectural site. Hue royal complex has been officially recognized by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site
Ngu Binh Mountain in the south is used as a front screening elevation. Two sand dunes of The Con Hen and Con Da Vien on the Perfume River are chosen as geomancy condition "dragon on the left, tiger on the right" to protect the capital city
2. Kinh Thanh Hue (Hue Capital Citadel)
This construction stared in 1805 under the reign of Emperor Gia Long and completed in 1832 under the reign of Emperor Ming Mang. Under Nguyen Dynasty, the Kings had ordered to build ramparts, palaces and constructional works for royal. Over 200 years to now, it is still original with nearly 140 small and large constructions
Unfortunately, Vietnam’s history of war has boded ill for the citadel, and much of the interior, particularly the Forbidden Purple City, has been destroyed. It was during the conflict with the Americans that some terribly bloody and vicious fighting took place, which flattened a lot of the inner city. However, some parts do still remain and will give you an idea of what a magnificent imperial capital Hue must have been.
The Citadel, square in shape, is almost 10km in circumference, 6m high, 21m thick and 10 entrances. On the top of the walls that surround it, 24 bastions are established for defensive purposes. Besides, the Citadel has an ancillary gate connecting the Tran Binh Bastion called the Thai Binh Mon (Peace Gate)
3. Hoang Thanh (Royal Citadel or Imperial City)
The Imperial City was constructed in 1804 and is square in shape, with a perimeter of nearly 2.5 km. It has four entrances: the Noon Gate that is opposite the flag tower, the Gate of Humanity on the left side, the Gate of Virtue on the right hand side, and the Gate of Peace at the rear. The city is surrounded by the Golden Waters pond that flows into the lakes at the northern corner of the city. Each gate has a bridge spanning the Golden Waters, whilst the Noon Gate has three bridges. In imperial times, the centre bridge was for the use of the Emperor alone, whilst the other two bridges were for the use of his entourage.
Once you enter via the Noon Gate, separating you from the Great Rites Court is the Thai Dich Lakes (Great Liquid Lakes). These were dug in 1883 and are spanned by a central bridge, the Trung Dao (Central path) Bridge. The bridge has two ornately designed gateway, carved with dragons slithering up and down them.
The Great Rites Court (also known as the Esplanade of Great Salutation) consists of two paved terraces. The upper was reserved for high ranking civil and military mandarins, whilst the lower was for village officials and elders. The steles on each side of the court indicate where each official’s designated place was. At the two corners of the court stand two bronze Kylins, which are believed to bring peace.
Beyond the Great Rites Court there is the Throne Palace. This was used on meetings. During these meetings, the Emperor would sit on his throne whilst only four top ranking officials were allowed in the palace. The remainder of officials had to stand outside according to rank. The palace was seriously damaged during the Tet Offensive.
Behind the Throne palace is where the Great Golden Gate once stood, marking the entrance to the Forbidden Purple City.
The imperial City was not destroyed to the extent of the Forbidden Purple City and there are number of temples still standing, although some are locked up due to their instability. These include Trieu Temple, Thai Temple (a reconstruction), the Residence of Everlasting Longevity, Phung Tien Temple, Mieu Temple, and the Hung Temple
4. Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Citadel)
Located inside the Imperial City, behind the Throne Palace, the Forbidden Purple Citadel is reserved for Emperor and his family. Constructed early under reign of Emperor Gia Long in 1804 with brick walls of 3.72m high, 0.72m thick, about 1,230m in circumference. Its front and back sides are 324m each while either left and right side is more than 290m including 50 architectural constructions of different sizes and 7 gates for facilities of entrance and exit. Dai Cung Mon (the Great Palace Gate) is in the front side for the Kings. Can Chanh Palace (the place for daily working of Emperors). Can Thanh (Emperor's Private Palace), Khon Thai Residence (Queen's Private Apartment) reserved for the Queen. Duyet Thi Duong house (Royal Theatre), Thuong Thien (the kitchen for the Kings' food), Thai Binh Lau (King's reading room)
In addition, there are also famous royal tombs and temples of Kings Nguyen outside Hue Citadel. Seven tombs with different aspect are not only a wonderful arch but also combining beautiful, imposing nature and poetic of Hue. Ancient Hue including Perfume River and Ngu Mountain, palaces and citadels, tombs and temples with hundred of historic years are being embellished and recovered by material contribution of Vietnamese and International community in order to keep Hue City as World cultural heritage
5. The Nine Dynastic Urns
Location: Nine Dynastic Urns are located in the shade of the Hien Lam Pavilion, in front of the The Mieu Temple.
Characteristics: The nine Dynastic Urns are the greatest bronze ones in Vietnam They were cast by Emperor Minh Mang in 1836 to symbolize the sovereignty of the dynasty
Each of them is named after the posthumous title of the emperors worshipped in the The Mieu Temple. For example, Cao Urn is named after Emperor The To Cao (Gia Long), Nhan Urn after Emperor Thanh To Nhan (Minh Mang), Chuong, Anh, Nghi, Tuyen and Thuan Urns after Emperors Thieu Tri, Tu Duc, Kien Phuoc, Dong Khanh and Khai Dinh respectively. (Until 1958 only seven altars were established in The Mieu Temple corresponding to seven urns. Du and Huyen Urns did not exist yet)
After their casting, the Nine Dynastic Urns were placed in accordance with the disposition of the altars in the Temple. Cao Urn stands in the center, alone in the first row. The others line behind and are placed symmetrically on both sides. On each urn are 17 traditional Vietnamese patterns like stars, rivers, mountains, seas and oceans, vehicles, valuable forestry and sea products, etc. The 153 patterns on the 9 urns constitute a real encyclopedia on the country. This precious cultural heritage is incredibly well-preserved in spite of the harsh weather and the numerous wars.
At first sight, the nine urns are almost alike, but in fact, they all differ in weight and size.
6. Perfume River and Ngu Binh Mount
Location: Deriving from Truong Son Mountain, the two springs Ta Trach (Left Tributary) and Huu Trach (Right Tributary) meet at the junction of Bang Lang fork and create the Perfume River.
Characteristics: Looking like “a silver sword upright to the sky”, Perfume River is really an invaluable godsend to Hue City
From Bang Lang to Thuan An estuary, the Perfume River is 30km long (The river level is not much above that of the sea) so that the river runs very slowly. The colour of the Perfume River is darker when it runs along the foot of Ngoc Tran Mount - the Jade Cup Temple (Dien Hon Chen) - where there is a very deep abyss
The Perfume River is beautiful sight from its source, and runs among mountains, forest trees, plants, etc, bringing with it fragrances of tropical flora. The river runs slowly through the verdant and shady villages of Kim Long, Nguyet Bieu, Vy Da, Dong Ba, Gia Hoi, Dinh market, Nam Pho, Bao Vinh, mingling with the odors of flowers of Hue... The river with the shimmer blue limpid colour is like a pearl in the sun. Boats are rowed up and down with remote, meditative and deep folk melodies at deep night. It is an eternal pleasure for many generations of tourists who go boating to behold the poetic landscape, to listen to the folk melodies of Hue in tranquil nights
The views on both sides of the river with the citadel, town, gardens, pagodas, towers and temples, etc. and their reflections in the waters make the already loveable river even more poetic and musical. Many people think that Hue City has peaceful, gentle and tranquil landscapes mostly thanks to the Perfume River. This river brings to the city a meditative poetic characteristics and the harmonious limpidity exhaling from a land of age-old culture
Together with the Perfume River, 105m Ngu Binh Mount is the second invaluable gift endowed by Nature to Hue. These two mingle with each other creating the Romantic Mountain and river beauty of Hue. For a long time, this beautiful mount and the blue limpid Perfume River have become the symbol of Hue City. Therefore, people often call Hue "The land of the Perfume River (Huong River) and Ngu Binh Mount" or Huong-Ngu Land".
7. The Imperial Tombs
Hue was the imperial centre of the Nguyen Dynasty which was founded in 1802 by Emperor Gia Long, and lasted until 1945. The banks of the Perfume River around the Imperial City became the royal graveyard for the thirteen rulers of this area. The majority of Vietnamese practice ancestor worship, regarding death as a passage into another existence. They believe the layout of a tomb affects the soul’s journey to the spirit world, and the fortunes of the living relatives are determined through formal ceremonies to the dead and protection of the tomb. Desecration of a tomb would have detrimental affects upon both the living ancestors and the souls chance of reaching the ultimate resting place in the spirit world. The tombs of the Emperors were even more important as their position would determine the future of the Dynasty. The Emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty there fore established their own Valley of the Dead, which is believed to be protected in both the physical and spiritual worlds.
8. Tomb of Tu Duc
Tu Duc was the Emperor of Vietnam from 1848 to 1883. He is regarded as one of the more decadent cruel Vietnamese Emperors. Although he was a dedicated Confucian, his lifestyle was unusual in all areas. At each mail he would have a choice of fifty dishes that were delivered by fifty servants and prepared by fifty chefs! He had over one hundred wives and quite a few girlfriends on the side, although he never had children. When Tu Duc drank tea, the water was collected as dew from lotus leaves. He also had one of his brothers put to death after his involvement in a revolt against him. His tomb was constructed between 1864 and 1867 and is own of the more grandiose tombs in Hue City’s surrounds. In an attempt to foil grave robbers, his body was not even buried in the tomb, and all those who were involved in the burial were beheaded. His body and treasures are at a destination that remains unknown.
The centrepiece of the tomb is a huge stone tablet that is estimated to weigh over twenty tonnes upon which are inscribed various clarifications of his rule. There are also a number of temples and other buildings within the tomb grounds, along with a nice lake with an island in the centre. Towards the end of his rule, Tu Duc spent a lot of time on this island and generally within his tomb, accompanied by his entourage. The tomb of Tu Duc is about 7 km out of the centre of Hue city.
9. Tomb of Minh Mang
Minh Mang Emperor ruled from 1820 to 1840 and was responsible for some of the major construction upon the Imperial City. It was also the actions of Minh Mang towards the Catholic missionaries which first brought French military power to bear on Vietnam. The ground of his tomb are large and peaceful, and his actual bomb oversees the Lake of Tranquillity. The first entrance is guarded by a life size stone entourage of soldiers, horses and elephants, and opens to a courtyard containing three temples. Past the temples, you will cross Trung Minh Ho (The Lake of Impeccable Clarity) which is bridged in three places. The central bridge was for the sole use of the Emperor whilst the other two were for his entourage. Beyond the pond there is Sung An Temple that Minh Mang dedicated to his Empress. Following this temple you need to cross another bridge before reaching his tomb that is a huge walled-in dirt mound, which you cannot enter. To give Minh Mang peace of mind whilst ruling, all his servants were eunuchs.
10. Tomb of Khai Dinh
Khai Dinh Emperor ruled from 1916 to 1925, and his tomb majestically appears from the side of a mountain covered by forest. Unfortunately, the tomb lacks the harmonious blending with nature that many of the other tombs and Vietnamese architecture tries to achieve. This is due to the fact that the tomb was built earlier this century during the French colonial occupation and under their influence. The weather-stained and blackened concrete walls make the tomb seem older than it actually is, but the different style of Khai Dinh’s tomb makes it worth a visit.
The tomb is layered, and each stage is divided by stairs. The entrance to the tomb begins with a long climb up from the street level staircase that is bound by dragon banisters. This opens up onto a courtyard, but it is the second level that has a stone statued entourage made up of life size mandarins, horses and elephants. You must contend with more stairs to get to the main part of the tomb and to where Emperor Khai Dinh is buried. The Khai Dinh temple is 10 km south of Hue City, and a sealed road passes straight past its entrance. The view from the top is quite beautiful, looking at the plains and surrounding mountains. The large white statue farther south standing on a hillside is of Quan Am, the Goddess of Mercy.
11. Hue garden houses
Cultural characteristics of Hue such as its cuisine, royal court music and royal architecture are being exploited effectively. Besides, the garden house is a typical and unique characteristic, contributing to the greater beauty of Hue.
Yet, Hue garden houses seem to have been forgotten. Many garden houses have disappeared and researchers are warning that if there are no suitable solutions, Hue garden houses won’t exist in the future. Garden houses began two hundred years ago, during the Nguyen dynasty in the former capital city, Hue. While the royal family lived in the palace, many other royal relatives lived in private residences or smaller palaces in villages such as Nguyet Kieu, Vy Da and Kim Long. They were aristocracy, enjoying gifts of land and gardens across the city.
Owners of the garden houses used strict rules of geomancy to build houses. All rations of the house, from the front gate to the back door were calculated carefully. The direction of the house was chosen carefully so that it can welcome winds and avoid ghosts and the harsh weather of the central region. Behind the front gate is a wind- screen that was made of bricks, usually bearing legends or being planted with jasmine to prevent both wind and the curious eyes from outsiders. It also creates openness for the garden and reduces the separation between the house and its surroundings. Behind the wind-screen are rockworks or small ponds with lotus flowers. There are two rows of hibiscus, roses, and laurel along the path leading to the main house.
The houses are solemn and bear an old atmosphere removed from modern life. The houses have elegance and soul, and love for art of the owner. Houses turn their backs on the road for two reasons, firstly good direction choice, suitable to the owner’s age and an escape from the noise and effervescent atmosphere of urban life. The houses are divided into three spaces: the left for men and the right for women, and in the middle an altar to pray Buddha or ancestors.
From thousands of houses in 1995 to 115 houses in 2001 and there are now only 50 houses. Several houses were rebuilt with cement. Most garden houses disappeared under the weight of progress. Owner’s houses sold parts of their houses to build more modern dwellings. Several were rebuilt as restaurants or Karaoke bars. Therefore, the number of garden houses is getting smaller and researchers are warning that if there are no suitable solutions, garden houses will soon disappear.
In Hoi An, a world cultural heritage, not far from Hue, people have well maintained their old houses. As owners of such old houses as Diep Dong Nguyen and Tan Ky could regularly receive financial and technical support to preserve the traditional architecture. They have attracted a great number of tourists and eared a good living by collecting fees and selling souvenirs.
The tourism industry can learn from these experiences to preserve Hue garden houses. Tourism agencies should co-ordinate with owners of garden houses to open more tours, besides traditional tours to castles, and palaces, to attract tourists’ attention. This can help the owners of these houses earn money to protect their houses. This is just a suggestion as it needs coordination among many related agencies, but a suitable solution is needed to protect Hue garden houses.
12. Dong Ba Market
Located next to Trang Tien bridge, Dong Ba market has been one of the most famous commercial centers in Vietnam for more than 100 years. The old local market was built in 1899 and then destroyed in 1968, in 1986 the market was rebuilt on an bigger area of 5 ha. Up to now, all the typical features of a traditional Vietnamese market are still there such as the sampan landing, the bus station and the bazaars. Dong Ba market is a paradise forsnapshots of daily activities as well as for shopping with everything from souvenir items to bronze goods, Hue sesame sweetmeat, conical poem hats, etc
13. The War Zone (DMZ)
This area saw most of the major confrontations during the American War. North of Hue is the Demilitarised Zone, or DMZ, and Quang Tri Province where much of the fighting occurred. The border between the communist North and the US-supported South was the Ben Hai River, not the ‘17th Parallel’ as is popularly believed. The area still bears the scars of the massive bombardments that took place.
The few remains of the many camps and combat bases, the barren ground pockmarked with craters, and the tens of thousands of graves in the National Cemetery, a fraction of the million North Vietnamese soldiers who died in the conflict, are solemn reminders of war. Nearby is the Vinh Moc tunnel complex, less extensive, but more authentic, than the more famous Cu Chi tunnels near Ho Chi Minh City.
14. Bach Ma National Park
Forty kilometres south of Hue is Bach Ma National Park, one of Vietnam’s best-managed nature reserves. The park encompasses a mountain area that was once a colonial hill-station. As well as good nature trails, waterfalls, lush vegetation and opportunities for trekking, Bach Ma has spectacular views over the coast.
15. Lang Co Beach
Twenty-five kilometres further south, Lang Co Beach is a long stretch of white sand with a pretty village and an attractive lagoon at the southern end. Halfway along is recently built resort hotel on the beach, a short distance from Highway 1. Its proximity to Hue makes it an alternative to accommodation in the city itself.
16. The Hai Van Pass
The mountains straddled by the Hai Van Pass are generally regarded as an unofficial demarcation line between the north and the south of Vietnam. It has spectacular views from its highest point, a good reason for avoiding the new tunnel cut through the granite peaks.
17. My An Hot Springs
The My An mineral spa is surrounded by attractive cultivated gardens extending over 18ha. It offers therapeutic mineral water treatments, and accommodation in large traditional houses. The complex is owned and run by the Hue-based Huong Giang Hotel Company with Japanese investment.
A pleasant 7km drive from Hue alongside the river takes you past several interesting pagodas and commune houses. The spa complex is set back from the road. The main pool, therapy area and accommodation are complete. A second phase including a reception area and a large restaurant is under construction for completion in 2005. As the area being developed is completely separate from the completed elements, a visit or stay is perfectly feasible.
The Spring
The mineral water artesian spring rises from a depth of 150m at a surface temperature of 52˚C. As you approach the spring, you become aware of the characteristic ‘bad eggs’ smell of hydrogen sulphide. The water, cooled to 42˚C, feeds a large attractive swimming pool. Adjacent is a smaller pool surrounded by fresh water shower cubicles.
The Water
The air around the pool is apparently charged with negatively charged particles (ions). Breathing it is believed to give relief to sufferers from certain allergies, such as allergic sinusitis and asthma. Bathing or swimming in the water is reputed to be beneficial for skin ailments, healing wounds, slowing the effects of aging, reducing the risk of strokes, helping breathing and relieving indigestion.
The Spa produces a gargle and mouthwash based on the spring water.
Our intrepid inspection team acted as guinea pigs to see if the Spa’s assertion that the water is drinkable was true. The answer is ‘Yes – just about’, but it’s better if you hold your nose. Drinking the water is said to be good for indigestion, constipation and flatulence. As none of us admitted to such afflictions, we can’t confirm its effectiveness or otherwise.
18. Thuan An Beach
Thuan An village, about 13km from Hue, lies beside Hue’s only beach of note. It’s within easy reach – if you feel energetic, it’s a pleasant cycle ride. The road runs alongside the river past several interesting pagodas and commune houses, and a local market at No village. From there, you cross a bridge to the long sand spit and lagoon where the Perfume River finally enters the sea.
The signs will direct you to the busy part of the beach. Unless you want to eat in one of the many dozens of seafood restaurants, this area is best avoided. It’s very popular with Vietnamese people – on public holidays, in particular, a sizeable part of Hue’s population heads for Thuan An. The beach disappears under the seething mass of people, and the sea boils with flotillas of ‘swimmers’ buoyed up by inflated vehicle inner tubes. The sand is dirty, and there’s no shade apart from that offered by the restaurants.
A new road and bridge link to is under construction, and is bound to increase the number of visitors to Thuan An.
If you’re in Hue, and fancy a dip in the sea, the best idea is to turn off the left before the road that leads to the main beach. Until quite recently, this led to what was then the main beach. In 1999, a violent storm drove the sea inland, overwhelming the beach. On the left are the remains of a small hotel reduced to a ruin by the waves. As a result, the local people decided the beach was unlucky and, together with the seafood restaurateurs, decamped to another beach site a couple of kilometres to the south.
Today, most Vietnamese visitors avoid the original beach. Apart from a couple of hardy restaurateurs willing to risk another invasion by the sea, it’s virtually empty. A band of feathery pine trees along the top of the beach provides some shade, but if you want to laze on the sand, buy a cheap sunshade in Hue in advance.
An alternative would be to head for the main beach, and then trudge southwards until you find a quieter part of the beach.
19. Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda
According to legend, the people around this area used to see a vision of an old lady appearing on the hill where the pagoda now sits. Upon seeing people, she always said that someday a great leader would build a pagoda at this site to bring peace to the country. One day, when Lord Nguyen Hoang passed by this area, upon hearing the story, he ordered the construction of the pagoda in 1601. He named it Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda.
Overlooking the southwest bank of the Perfume river, the Pagoda has two sections. The front of the Pagoda can be accessed from the Perfume river and has the Phuoc Duyen tower which can be seen from many points in Hue. This area also houses the great bell which was cast in 1710. It also has the turtoise bearing a great stele carved in 1715.
The rear of the pagoda is the main hall where Buddha is enshrined. It is also an area where the monks of the temple live and practice Buddhism. The Pagoda was the center of Buddhism in central Vietnam. In 1963, in a defying act against the Diem regime, Thich Quang Duc burned himself in downtown Saigon. Today, the car that took him to Saigon is stored in the rear of Thien Mu Pagoda.
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